Basic Pearl Primer
As with gemstones and diamonds, nature produces pearls in endless color variations, sizes, shapes, surface variations, and luster levels. At Hamilton Hill, we partner with Gellner Pearls to specialize in cultured saltwater pearls from Tahiti, Marutea, Fiji, and the South Seas (e.g., Australia and Indonesia). We also offer Gellner freshwater pearls, including fabulous Ming pearls that are deep pink and lavender. When opening a pearl oyster, you don’t know exactly what you’ll find. Whatever it is, however, is how it will stay: these pearls are not colored, reshaped or otherwise altered. Colors and other pearl specifications are driven by variations in the host mollusk, water, and sand, and they are not guaranteed. “Cultured” refers to humans aiding in production by simulating the natural pearl formation process by gently and precisely introducing a foreign substance (the pearl’s own mantel tissue) into the oyster.
Keep in mind the following as you get to know (and love) pearls:
Luster: How light reflects off pearls. Chalky is the opposite of lustrous.
Blemishes or spot level: From difficult to see to “circled.” Not all spots or blemishes are unsightly.
Shape: From spherical to off-round to drop shaped to amorphous. Rounds are the rarest and therefore cost the most.
Size: This is the primary value factor in a pearl. They are measured in MMs.
Color: Large South Sea golden and white pearls typically cost the most.
Matching: In a strand, how well the pearls match each other is a value factor. Finding enough pearls to make a perfectly matched strand can take years.
Image: Gellner
Pick Your Pearls
Wear and Care
Look regal in a fine South Sea pearl strand at a formal event. Look chic in a baroque (non-round, often beautifully “blemished”) strand worn with denim, boots, sandals, etc. Pearls simply do not have to be reserved for formal wear, and they benefit from the oil in your skin (assuming it’s free from sunscreen, perfume, etc.). Layer pearl strands with gold and silver necklaces and chains. Add “vario” decorative clasps* to your strands or wear a single pearl with vario mechanisms on a leather cord. Stack pearl bracelets with your gold and silver bracelets. Wear an impressive sculptural pearl ring … you’ll enjoy looking at it as will your admirers! *Hamilton Hill vario clasps come from Gellner, Marcel Roelofs, Atelier Zobel, and Joerg Heinz.
As mentioned above, pearls need a little more care than some other stones or forms of jewelry, but our pearl jewelry is designed to be hardy, worn often and loved always. Specific recommendations for care will accompany your pearl jewelry choices. In closing, note this about pearl care note from the production side: Pearl farms must maintain very high ecological standards in order to produce high quality pearls. The pearl ecosystem is fragile if not treated with great care.
